Itoshima, a seaside handicraft restaurant / KURASUKOTO

measure of adansonia

EAT

Partial excerpts of text from KURASUKOTO
Original text: Mikinaoko
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

Colorful soups, salads and baked goods topped with jewel-like pulp.
Each dish is so delicious and beautiful that you can't help but feel happy even after the feast.
In Adansonia, there is a "measure" that they have spun out over time.
"All you need is enough money to live on.
"Be a child's best friend,
I've decided that I'd quit the store if I was too busy with my work to tear my family apart.
The couple's unique values come out of their mouths one after another.
Their sense of style, the secret to creating breathtaking food, and the way they deal with their families...
Wanting to know more about any of them, I went to Itoshima in autumn.The owner, Tatsuya Maeda and his wife, Yukari, serve up creative dishes and sweets while taking care of the ingredients produced on Itoshima.

Measure of food

To create while leaning on the rhythms of nature and life.

The air was getting chilly. It's the entrance of autumn when the sun across the street gives us a cheerful warmth. You can't help but take a deep breath when you see the golden ears of rice that hang down the sides of the river and the majestic mountains. The train running through the magnificent scenery is like a miniature. It felt like a bit of an excursion before heading to "Adansonia" in Itoshima. As we drove on, relying on the navigation system, we found a small house. The vermilion tiled roof with blue tiles in places is a delight. In front of us, the bright blue sea, which is even better than the color of the sky, sparkles.

Kneading pasta is one of Tatsuya's daily tasks. The pastry board wobbles when you apply force from above to the rounded fabric. Stretching, cutting, and working silently, they look like children who have lost themselves in a game of clay.

Measure of material

Ingenuity and ideas that bring out the charm of the material.

Adansonia's cuisine is full of wondrous charm. From hors d'oeuvres to desserts, the restaurant has a dignified yet simple atmosphere. However, it is the chef's skill as a chef that supports the stable and authentic appearance of the restaurant.
Tatsuya says he once trained at an orthodox French restaurant in Tokyo. From the way vegetables are cut, to the way ingredients are cooked, to the concentration that goes into making a dish... The lessons he learned there were certainly the foundation upon which Adansonia's cooking was built, and he says he still cherishes them today.

In terms of technique, of course, the chef says every day of the week, "Don't waste your food! This could still work!" He said. Don't leave even a single grain of rice on the pot for Makanai. The shells are eaten in pot-au-feu or curry after the soup is removed. If you freeze egg whites left over from making sweets, they will foam easily, and if you cut off the leftover bread, you can process it again for dessert. Most of the materials were secondary or tertiary processed. The food had a sophisticated atmosphere, like antique clothes, and it was cool.

Colorful vegetables served with carrots pilaf. Tatsuya is now addicted to Russian preserved foods. Fermented with carrots, cucumbers and other vegetables of your choice, it makes a great pickle. It's easy to use for cooking and the color is beautiful. "Whenever there are scraps of vegetables, I put them in this jar," he says, adding that this is another way to avoid wasting food.

Measure of confectionery

"Making" is the spice that makes life more enjoyable.

Yukari's sweets making is lighthearted. It's handy and there's no hesitation in making it. The emerald green shine muscat cake was topped one after another with a lot of white chocolate and decorated with olive leaves as an accent.
The finished product climbs onto the cake stand and if you look closely, you'll notice a slight difference in expression. The flesh and the orientation of the leaves are subtly different. I'm changing the direction just a little bit so we don't have the same child (candy), and if I had 100, I'd make 100 different things! and seems to be having fun. I made chocolate (brown) and mascarpone (white) terrines, respectively, and arranged them in a targeted way, or made a package with sea shells from the sea in front of the shop and dried flowers from the plants in the garden. These are photogenic, adorable, attractive sweets. Yukari-san is able to make people excited through her sweets.

I'm self-taught when it comes to making sweets. If I had to say, I'd say it was my father's influence. When I was young, my father ran a buckwheat noodle shop. There was always buckwheat in the house, and I lived around buckwheat. I remember how I was embarrassed to eat buckwheat tea and the lunch boxes on the excursions had buckwheat in them. Therefore, buckwheat flour is always familiar to me. When I was in elementary school, I used to bake cookies and cakes instead of flour, and since they would get crumbly or burnt, I would think of formulas and research how to make them into pretty shapes!

Yukari says that in her childhood, she spent her days experimenting and making things by hand. She would dye plants if she wanted a cute pink handkerchief that her friends had, and she would make beet boards and rafts for summer water play. On one occasion, when she came home from school, her father told her to pick some edible wildflowers, and the wildflowers she picked were dried and mixed with salt... She experimented with herbal salts.

Measure of family

To be a child's best friend.

I don't feel like I'm a parent to my children, and I feel like my family is my friends. Yukari came aboard the boat I was rowing, and the children came aboard... I feel like I'm traveling while everyone is talking and laughing. Traveling should be fun, right?

If the purpose of the work becomes "just money", we are forced to stay open longer. He said he would be financially satisfied if he worked twice as much as he does now, but he wanted to value something more important than that.

KURASUKOTO

Potter Naoyuki Inoue / Casa BRUTUS #242 May 2020 / Special feature "ART & EAT"

Potter Takashi Yomiya / Casa BRUTUS #242 May 2020 / Special feature "ART & EAT"

taishoji / BRUTUS #910 Mar 2020 / Special feature "Kitchen"

talk: Ai Hosokawa

taishoji

Premium Japan, May 2019

時が過ぎ、台所の風景の一部となり、気がつくと真っ赤に追熟した頃にようやく、さて。となる。トマトをつかむ。匂いを嗅ぐ。触ってどのくらいの弾力かを確かめる。そうしてようやく私の頭の中に一つの料理のイメージが湧いてくる。それでも、私は観察をやめない。ひたすら素材と対峙する。それが今の私の料理の在り方だ。

Steamed tomatoes are served in a freshly steamed egg custard with hot, braised tomatoes.

Original text: Ai Hosokawa
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

When I was in Tokyo, for example, I kept thinking about "tomatoes" and how to cook them today. Whether I was riding my bike or swimming in the pool, my mind was occupied with tomatoes, and my primary concern was how to make them tastier and more appealing to eaters.

But now it's different. If you see a delicious looking tomato at the market, without thinking, you put it in a basket and take it home.
Then, as soon as I left, I opened the bag and heaped the tomatoes in an olive wood pot on the kitchen table.
There isn't much to cook right away.
Time passes, it becomes part of the kitchen landscape, and before you know it, it's finally ripening to crimson, and now, well. It becomes
Grab a tomato. Smell it. Touch it to see how bouncy it is.
And finally, an image of a dish came to my mind.
Still, I don't stop observing. We are confronted with the material. That's the way I cook now.
Since living in Kumamoto, my cooking has become more attentive to the ingredients.

The kitchen space is filled with gentle light from the window in front of the sink. This is a space where she has chosen and placed only the things she really needs and likes.

The kitchen space is filled with gentle light from the window in front of the sink. This is a space where she has chosen and placed only the things she really needs and likes.

The vegetables in Kumamoto are delicious.
After traveling around Japan and around the world, I think again.
So I didn't go out on a limb and think about how to make it tastier.
If anything, it's more important to be mindful so that you don't ruin something delicious by cooking it yourself, even if you don't do anything at all.

There is a sense of clarity and presence in the taste that is created in this way.
This is not possible with vegetables that have no power, but if they taste good as they are, it would be nice to help them develop their deliciousness. Cooking in a way that doesn't make you feel like you're being overtly manipulated is one of the things I value most.

Kaoruko Watanabe's sweets are similarly free of omission. That's why I love her confections with all my heart.
The figure is like a dignified single flower of tea, and though it is firmly covered with human thoughts and hands, it has a natural appearance, as if it has been born out of the natural world.
The taste reminds us of the sprouting of young mugwort leaves in the springtime mugwort rice cakes, and the orange sweet and sour fruit that bounces between the green leaves in the early summer summer mandarin jelly.

So is the flower of Takeshi Sakamura.
There is a tea house called "Koushouken" in Tachida Nature Park behind my house.
He arranges flowers there every month and invites guests to visit. In his hands, the flowers he finds on the forest path, the large branches of a decaying plum tree in our garden, or even the vines entwined with other plants on the roadside, seem to be in the midst of nature.
However, if you look hard enough, you can see that there is something delicate and precious that only he can do.

Golden fried tropical salmon and paprika with mustard lotus root batter.

The vegetables, fruits, grasses, flowers, and trees of Kumamoto inspire us every day.
Surrounded by mountains and the sea, the harsh heat of summer and the cold of winter, and those who are born and raised in this environment, have a sense of "life". For those who make a living from cooking, confectionery and flowers, there can't be many lands that are so blessed. In the spring, we planted another bunch of flowers and trees in the garden.
I wonder if the day will come when my daughter, who is still young at the moment, will create something unique to her while feeling the four seasons in the trees where they have grown up together.
I would like to live with the food, waiting for that day with all my heart.

Untranslated text: Ai Hosokawa

Premium Japan

Premium Japan, May 2019

The fruit of the season in Kumamoto is trapped as it is.

There is a patissier who is often seen at the events that Ai Hosokawa holds at Taishoji. Kaoru Watanabe, who makes sweets from seasonal fruits in Kumamoto, is that person. Ai says, "Once I eat Kaoru's sweets, I think I shouldn't be making sweets. Her confections, even in their gentleness, show the imposing figure of fruit.  This is probably because it is filled with the kindness of the maker and the consideration for the people who eat it.

Original text: Kaoru Watanabe
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

I like to watch the changes of the seasons in the garden of Taishoji, and while attending tea ceremonies, I became involved in Taishoji before I knew it.
Monthly morning markets, seasonal markets, and shed sales. You may be heard at a tea party or coffee shop in conjunction with an exhibition.
While holding a tea ceremony, you can borrow a dish from a neighboring display and serve it up to match the atmosphere of the event, which is one of the pleasures of Taishoji.

This is a fragrant lotus rice cake made from mugwort sprouts and red beans from Kumamoto.

We served sweets on pottery containers made by Yoshio Samukawa. These are the sweets I made at the beginning of March.
When mugwort had barely sprouted, we picked small soft leaves and made mugwort rice cake. Azuki beans from Kumamoto are used for the bean jam.
It's made by someone nearby, and it's very flavorful, and when it's a new bean, it has a hint of hinted goodness.

In Kumamoto, there is an indigenous species of azuki called Higoshozu. It was a farmer who was familiar with the indigenous species who told me that it was good tasting but small in size and the yield was low and no one was making it for sale anymore.
One of these days, I'm going to visit the person who makes these Higo red beans.

The other one is summer mandarin oranges with agar.
The good thing about these sweets is that when you put the knife in, the aroma spreads out in a flash. It's tempting to open the lid and scoop it up with a spoon, but we encourage you to cut it up and enjoy its aroma at the table.
Kawachi in Kumamoto is a citrus production area, and there are many citrus mountains along the sea. From autumn to winter, the whole mountain is filled with orange mandarin oranges, and during the flowering season in May, the whole mountain is filled with the fragrance of mandarin flowers.
As the name implies, Kawachi-bankan is harvested late in the season, so it produces large fruits until early summer. It is a very sweet citrus with a grapefruit-like aroma.

There is a Nishida orchard at the top of this mikan mountain. We produce citrus fruits, peaches, and peach peaches using "moon reading cultivation", which is cultivated in accordance with the phases of the moon.
Naturally grown fruits and vegetables are smaller, more flavorful, and clearer than what we usually see in stores.
The moon readings are especially fragrant, so I eat them every season.

Farmers associated with Taishouji often recommend things they haven't used before or see for the first time.
What's in store for Chandra e Chandino, an organic farm in Kumamoto that produces herbs and Italian vegetables? he brings herbs he's never heard of before or flowers that have just bloomed.

Untranslated text: Ai Hosokawa

Premium Japan

Chikashi Abe Yamato-cho, April 2019

Courage to quit pesticides.

Born in Yamato Town, Kumamoto Prefecture, Abe Chikashi has been farming for 47 years. He followed in the footsteps of a farmer, making tea and rice by convention, and previously raising cattle. From the beginning, the use of pesticides was low, but after participating in organic farming study groups such as the Love Farmers' Association, he decided to work on pesticide-free farming. The tea leaves are not even washed with water. It was a natural decision, considering the people who drank it, and I didn't want to be covered with pesticides myself. He was surprised because it was normal to use a lot of pesticides in tea cultivation and there were few people who grew tea without pesticides.

It would have taken a lot of courage and faith to stop using pesticides in tea cultivation, where more than 20 sprays of pesticides a year are the norm.
Unlike rice and vegetables, tea leaves are not washed with water, so the risk of pesticide residue is high.
Growing tea without pesticides means, of course, a decrease in yield. You have to be prepared to take the time to weed, watch the tea closely, prune it, judge the timing of the fertilizer, and make an effort to control disease and insect outbreaks.
Yields and income will be lower than those of conventional farmers.
He said that when he drove his truck to attend a tea workshop, only luxury cars were parked in the parking lot.
They say, "It's better not to go organic if you're going to make money." Pesticide-free cultivation of roasted tea is not profitable.

It has been sold through a citizen's co-op, etc. After that, they set up a group of pesticide-free teas in JA, and now they sell mainly through JA.
I was worried about the droppings in my rice, but about 20 years ago I joined the organic farming research group of JA and started the Aigamo farming method.
He is currently the president of the Yabe Area Organic Farming Study Group.

"SOUP" by Ai Hosokawa / #19 KURASHI NO OHESO Feb 2015

The way of cooking soup is to enjoy the randomness.

There's nothing more nostalgic than soup.
There's nothing more free cooking than soup.
But...
There is no more delicate dish than soup.
So I'm tingling and tingling.
The delicate balance between moisture and solids can be seen in
I try to keep a quiet perspective.
'SOUP' (Little More)
Ai Hosokawa

Partial excerpts of text from KURASHI NO OHESO #19 Feb 2015
Original text: Noriko Ichita
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

When you start making I can't imagine what the dish will be like. It's so haphazard. I've been able to enjoy it.

Tearing the Chinese cabbage by hand into a pot of 'stove'.  Sprinkle with thin slices of ginger and sprinkle with salt. When I put the lid on, she said, "I haven't decided how I'm going to make it from now on."

I was surprised by her words with such a grin on her face! What, you haven't decided?

"I always look at the ingredients and decide which soup to make.I just taste it as I make it, and if something is missing, I just think about what I should add."

I got married and moved to Kumamoto, and this year is my sixth year. The biggest change from when I was living in Tokyo is that my cooking has become more haphazard.

"In Kumamoto, vegetables are wonderful. We also have a small garden, and we get organic vegetables delivered to us twice a month. If you're up for it, it's relatively easy to spend your days eating only orgasmic vegetables. You never know what you're going to get, so it would be a waste if you didn't cook on a case-by-case basis, wouldn't it? In Tokyo, we used to prepare the ingredients by saying, "I'm going to make this," but here, it's more enjoyable to focus on the quality of the ingredients rather than deciding on various details."

In October last year, she published a cooking essay called "Soup". Here's a recipe for 32 servings of soup and the story behind it.

"Soup has a lot of nostalgia, but there are a lot of things you need to be aware of when making it. It's rough and delicate. That's what makes it so interesting.This soup with lumpy vegetables can be made into potage the next day, and it's delicious when it changes shape! I think..... It's that kind of flexibility that makes it so easy to make subtle changes with a little bit of skill."

As I listened to the story, the Chinese cabbage in the pot was half full.Put this in a blender and it turns into a fluffy creamer that looks like a mousse.

"At first, I was going to stir the Chinese cabbage and ginger together, but I did it separately. Drizzle the ginger creamer over the Chinese cabbage creamer and mix it on a plate to your liking."

This is how a soup that can only be made at the time of the day is made.  However, there are also some basic rules that are non-negotiable.The first thing to do is not to use so-called 'soup base'.

"If you add 'soup base', everything tastes the same...  Once you realize that, you can naturally make the choice not to use it. How do you get that ingredient-y goodness without using it?  I think."

For example, for minestrone, add a garden harp or a bouquet garni made of fragrant vegetables tied with octopus thread.  also picked a harp for my four-year-old daughter, Camellia, in the garden. Tsubaki, who loves to cook, knows how to follow her mother's steps.

In addition, it does not add any animal products such as meat.

"I know that it will taste better if I put it in, but it's my own personal challenge... I'd like to figure out how to make it tasty with only Chinese cabbage.  Every day is an experiment."

While making the soup, she tasted it several times. When the soup is cooked, take a sip of the soup.

"It's important to eat the vegetables you're making. If it were raw, it would taste like this. This is what it tasted like when I cooked it... Knowing this, you can make the 'next move'...  I guess the trick to making them well is to eat with a bang,"

Purple minestrone

While making the soup, she tasted it several times. When the soup is cooked, take a sip of the soup.

Chinese cabbage and ginger creamer

Sprinkle thin slices of ginger over the Chinese cabbage and place in a steamer. Stir each separately to make two creamers.

Tangerine soup

Soaking peeled mandarin oranges in water makes it easier to remove the streaks. This is a fireless dessert soup mixed with a variety of citrus fruits to add depth to the flavor.

KURASHI NO OHESO

IKISUISAN June 2017

Founded in 1955 as a sea urchin manufacturer.

All the work, from fishing to processing, is done by hand.

The Murasaki sea urchin of Iki fisheries is a natural product that can be caught in Iki Island. The Iki sea urchin, which grows in the rich seashore (rocky coast) of the Genkai Sea, is characterized by its small size but rich sweetness and umami. The fishing season is only about two months from the end of April, just before the sea urchins spawn. The water temperature hasn't risen yet, and it starts in early spring. As soon as the fishing is over, the sea urchin is taken out of the sea urchin by the divers. One by one, the sea urchins are split by hand and the fish is scooped out with a long, thin spoon. Afterwards, the sea urchin is washed in clean seawater and the impurities are removed with chopsticks.

The processing of sea urchins at Iki Suisan is all done by hand. It is a product that brings out the deliciousness of the sea urchin and is made with careful work. Fresh urchins are carefully selected, drained and sorted, and salted on the same day. In this process, the excess water is removed and the sweetness of the sea urchin itself is enhanced.

The amount of salt is different for each product, but we will make further fine adjustments based on the sense of the maker. For example, the period of time until the sea urchin's spawning season, the weather on the day of the catch, and the condition of the tide. In the case of granulated sea urchin, add the minimum amount of alcohol and let it rest. This gives it a rich aroma and richness that is completely different from that of raw sea urchin.

IKISUISAN

Christmas lunch by Ai Hosokawa at NAGOMI Dec 2014

The most important thing is how to combine the materials.

To enjoy the hospitality.

Partial excerpts of text from NAGOMI Dec. 2014
Original talk: Ai Hosokawa
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

The main course of today's party was steamed boiled chicken, a twist on a Christmas dish from the countryside of Florence, Italy, where I spent my apprenticeship.

In Italy, a castrated rooster called "cappone" is eaten at Christmas (lunch on the twenty-fifth), boiled or roasted. My homestay family used to cook it slowly on a gas cooker, but I cook it in the open and steam it. This is a recipe that I've been applying to a lot of different meats because it's easy to make, without fail, and it's definitely delicious.

I don't often make dishes at parties that require me to stir the pot all the time, even if it's the same stew. After all, we want to talk about the tape with our customers. If you do something too heavy-handed, you'll be exhausted and won't be able to continue. I don't cut corners, but when I entertain people, I try not to overdo it on a point-by-point basis. Today's dish is also easy, with no prep from the day before. All you have to do is "boil", "mix" and "pour".

The star-shaped pasta in steamed chicken broth was a favorite at Christmas in our house last year. The soup is only seasoned with salt.

Anyway, I don't want to put anything wasteful in my food. Naturally, I'm also conscious of the color, but I put it in because I need the taste and smell more than that. The most important thing is how to combine the materials.

Anyway, I don't want to put anything wasteful in my food. Naturally, I'm also conscious of the color, but I put it in because I need the taste and smell more than that. The most important thing is how to combine the materials.

Speaking of ingredients, vegetables here in Kumamoto have a stronger taste than those in the city. I often change my dishes after seeing them raw and tasting them. Since coming here from Tokyo, where there are many products from all over the world, I have become more sensitive to the sense of season and the seasonality of ingredients. The essentials are different, but there's no need to force yourself to buy something from a distant region and incorporate it into your cooking when there's something delicious near you right now. I think that's the same approach that was taken in Italy, and I think it's also applicable to Chakaiseki.

I always have a general idea of what the main course should look like, but I think of the menu by watching the flow of the party and working with my hands. Sometimes I ask a friend who is helping me, "Which one do you like better?" At home parties, I enjoy that kind of ripe feeling when I'm cooking.

Tankosha

KARASHIRENKON by Ai Hosokawa at Kateigaho 2014

The taste that the lord loved.

Naomi Edamoto's food preparation / coyote #48 Spring 2013

coyote